Ещё пару дней назад, с бутонами цимбидиума было всё хорошо. Но сегодня я обнаружила, что бутоны желтеют и осыпаются. Что случилось? Неправильный полив и смена места…
В заголовке этого ролика эпитеты, которыми награждают Ботанический сад Сингапура туристы, побывавшие там.
А вот один из отзывов:«Я вообще не сильно по ботаническим садам, это если уже остается свободное время. Но на этот раз — это полный восторг! Идеально ухоженный, разумно устроенный, чистейший, красивейший! Только превосходная форма прилагательных! Вход бесплатный, в выходные много гуляющих, но территория огромна и количество людей абсолютно не напрягает. Если я еще буду в Сингапуре, а я очень этого хочу, то обязательно приду сюда еще.»
Ссылка на статью о взыскании штрафа с нарушителя правил Ботанического сада: mothership.sg/2018/01/why-the-bangladeshi-worker-was-fined-for-plucking-tree-leaves-explained/ biotabletka.ru — Магазин биодобавок natural-silk.ru — Магазин натурального шелка dvetabletki.ru — Акулий жир с Хайнаня (Китай)
ВИДЕО СОЗДАЮТСЯ ПРИ ПОДДЕРЖКЕ НАШЕГО ОФИЦИАЛЬНОГО ИНТЕРНЕТ МАГАЗИНА: vk.cc/9Z9xoi
Друзья, здравствуйте! С вами Лариса Зарубина и канал 7 СЕМЯН!
Как часто после выхода ролика я слышу от Вас: «Лариса, а что за гигантский цветок позади Вас?» Это, друзья мои, спатифиллум! В этом ролике я поделюсь с Вами всеми секретами ухода за этим прекрасным цветком и научу Вас как правильно его поливать, потому что это очень важно. Надеюсь, мой ролик Вам понравится и Вы вырастите роскошный Спатик!
Помните, что каждый четверг мы разыгрываем призы на канале! Чтобы принять участие, нужно посмотреть ролик(который выходит в четверг), подписаться на канал и прокомментировать ролик. Среди комментаторов мы случайным образом выберем победителя!
Розыгрыш проводится с помощью программы lizaonair.com/giveaway/
Победитель розыгрыша на этой неделе в закрепленном комментарии!
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Если у вас возникнут вопросы после просмотра ролика, пишите мне в комментариях, и мы вместе найдем правильное решение. А так-же не забывайте подписываться на канал! Ставьте лайки, пишите свои предложения и пожелания, ну и не забывайте нажать на колокольчик, что-бы не пропустить новые видео!
В нашем Инстаграм тоже много интересного, подписывайтесь: www.instagram.com/7semyan/?hl=ru
График выхода роликов:
-вторник
-четверг в 18:00 по московскому времени
Прогулка по OBI. Много прекрасных комнатных цветов, кашпо, горшков для комнатных цветов. Садовые растениия, удобрения и много интересного в торговом центре.
Всем приятного просмотра!
#комнатныецветы #садовыерастения #кашподляцветов #орхидеи #антуриумы
Joe Sherinski has tips for trimming a hedge. See how to avoid ugly dead stems and create a beautiful border and barrier.
Theres a lot of dead wood in this hedge, and the reason for it is vertical sides. This hedge has been trimmed with vertical sides for years and years, and as a result, all the foliage at the bottom never got any sun and so it died out. This hedge doesnt even make a good visual barrier anymore. Now this is a nice healthy Yew hedge, and Im shearing it in such a way that its wider at the bottom than it is at the top. Thats called giving the hedge batter, and the reason for doing that is to get sunlight on the bottom of the hedge. That keeps the bottom thick and full and lush. And its important in this instance because this hedge was planted as insulation, keep wind from howling under this drafty old front porch. There are two important things to know about trimming a hedge. The first is different plants should be trimmed at different times of year. Check with your local nursery and make sure youre doing it at the right time of year. And the other thing is with an evergreen hedge like these Yews, never cut past where its green or youll reveal these dead inner stems that may never bud out again. For bigger jobs, you may wanna use an electric or gas powered hedge trimmer, but be careful. These things make a mistake in a hurry. Make the bottom wider than the top, again, to keep that bottom good and thick and full and heres a little tip: lay out a tarp or even an old bed sheet to catch the clippings. Itll save you cleanup time later. Now Ive been doing this for a long time, but when I first started I always put in a guide string like this one. The reason for that is to get the top of my hedge level and straight from one end to the other. And on long hedges like this I still use a guide string. A guide string wont help this hedge though. In fact, if yours looks like this one, what you need to do is rejuvenation pruning. Take a chainsaw, cut it down to six to ten inches tall. Fertilize it. Itll grow back, and when it does, trim it wider at the bottom than at the top.
In this project, we are converting a spare bedroom into a home office. Tile is an excellent choice for a home office because it’s easy to maintain, and the hard surface allows for easy the movement of office furniture that, more and more commonly these days, comes equipped with lockable rollers.
The tile that Teresa is installing in this segment is attractive porcelain tile from Dal-Tile. Porcelain is a great choice for a home office. Because porcelain tile is fired at very high temperatures, it’s denser and more durable than ceramic tile, and can better withstand the heavy use that’s typical in a home office. Porcelain tile is also very resistant to stains.
Step 1. The sub-floor of our house is a concrete slab. The first step is to remove the carpet and pad, then check the concrete floor for inconsistencies and rough spots. Dents and dings in the concrete will not pose as serious a problem for tile as will protrusions. If possible, chisel off any protrusions in the concrete that exceed an eighth of an inch. Then give the concrete a good cleaning.
(If the sub-floor beneath your tiling project is plywood or oriented strand board, plane down any high spots and re-nail the sub-floor in any places where the flooring has come loose.)
Step 2. Find the center of the room. To find the exact center of the room, measure the distance from one wall to the opposite wall, divided that number in half, and made a long perpendicular mark at that spot. She then repeated the process for the two other walls, and put an “X” where the two lines intersected. The same result can be achieved by striking chalk lines at the center points on opposing walls, and marking the point where the two chalk lines intersect.
Step 3. Then lay out a dry run of tiles from the center point to a facing wall, making sure to put spacers between the tiles. Measure the distance from the last tile to the wall, being sure to take into consideration the quarter inch of grouting that would fall between the last field tile and the border tile. If the distance between the last field tile and the wall is two inches or less, you should move the line of tile back toward the center of the room to ensure that the border tiles are not too narrow. This process ensures that the border tiles along this wall and the opposite wall are the same width. Then repeat the process along the other axis, toward the adjacent wall.
In this case, all border tiles needed to be cut at seven inches, resulting in border tiles measuring 12” X 7”.
Step 4. Teresa used a dry scoring tile cutter to cut all the border tiles. One can also use a wet saw, which can be rented from most big box home improvement stores. We were using a pattern that combined 12” X 12” tiles, 6” X 12” tiles and 6” X 6” tiles. To create the 6” X 12” tiles, Teresa simply cut the 12” X 12” inch tiles in half.
Step 5. Teresa bound the tiles to the floor using thinset mortar adhesive. There are many kinds of tile adhesive on the market, including pre-mixed compounds that come ready to spread. The thinset used came as a powder, and Teresa used an electric drill with a huge blender attachment to mix the powder with water until it was about the consistency of toothpaste.
Step 6. When the first batch of thinset mortar was ready, Teresa used a notched trowel to spread an even coat of thinset over the area she would begin to tile. She began the installation in the corner, first setting a square 7” X 7” tile, then began laying the other border tiles along both walls for a few feet.
Step 7. Next Teresa began laying the field tiles in the pattern we chose for this installation, spreading a section of thinset, then placing the tiles down in the pattern. She continued working in this fashion until the floor was completely covered in tile.
Step 8 It is extremely important to let the tiles set for a full 24 hours before applying the grout. Once the tiles have set for 24 hours, remove the spacers from between the tiles, and begin the grouting.
Step 9 For this project, we used a pre-mixed grout. Teresa spread the grout over the tile, making sure to push the grout down into the spaces between the tiles, not worrying too much about getting the grout onto the tile surface—there’s really no way to avoid getting grout on the tile surface while grouting, so it’s best just to concentrate on ensuring that the spaces between the tiles are filled.
Step 10. Although it’s tedious, it is necessary to sponge the grout off the top of the tiles soon after the grout is applied, using repeated passes with a sponge dipped in clean water. Because the grout is much harder to remove from tile after it has dried, it’s a good idea to grout only a small section at a time. A section five by five feet is about as large an area as can be adequately grouted before the grout begins to dry on the surface of the tile.
Use less time and effort, for better results. Know and be familiar with a few key tools you need. Video inspired by a conversation with Stephanie Hafferty, from questions asked on the FB Group Undug.
I show efficient and easy use of just a few tools. We start with moving compost in my old wheelbarrow, a vital tool.
You see how a manure fork contrasts with a digging fork. I use the former to load a wheelbarrow, and break lumps of compost so that spreading is more even and compost is then more available to soil organisms
Bosch demo hammer: amzn.to/2zSqJuy still needs the shovel attachment: amzn.to/2z6CQnm
A well reviewed option for less than $200: amzn.to/3dD7pjC
Quikrete Concrete Expansion Joint: amzn.to/2A30IIX
Due to requests, I am now including links to products when possible. These links are provided for reference, no company or individual paid to be in this video. Depending on the vendor, a small commission might be paid and if so, would be used to support continuing this channel.
Amazon Prime free 30-day trial: amzn.to/2U9pttN
Installing a walkway can be a very labor intensive job, but if you do it yourself, you can save a lot of money over hiring contractor.
Before you get started, you’ll need the following materials.
-fiber reinforced concrete
-claw hammer
-line level: amzn.to/2AxwsFX or amzn.to/3gYpxGL
-wooden stakes
-expansion joints: we used amzn.to/2A30IIX
-wood forms
-trowel
-wheelbarrow
-Bosch electric shovel: amzn.to/2zSqJuy or manual equivalent
-concrete mixing tools
-broom
-tape measure
First, determine how long and how wide you want your walkway to be. After you’ve measured the width, drive a stake into the ground on both sides of where you’ll begin, these stakes will be your reference points for the remainder of the project.
Then, attach a screw to the lower third of the first stake. Use a line level to make sure you’ve got the proper angle of drainage away from the house.
The line level is basically a long piece of string strung through a small level. The string fits through two holes on top of the level, so you can slide the level along the string.
Take one end of the string, attach it to the screw you’ve installed on the first stake, drive a second stake at the end of your proposed walkway. Attach the other end of the string to this stake and check to make sure that you will have proper drainage. In other words, you don’t want the bubble to show “level”,you want there to be a slight slope away from the house. (Failure to make sure water will drain away from your house could later cause foundation problems)
Next, use a shovel or the Bosch electric shovel, to dig out the area of your walk.
Once this is done, sink a stake about ever two feet on both sides of the cut out ground where your walkway will go. Then take 3” X 4’ pieces of plywood and attach them at ground level to the stakes. You can use a cordless screwdriver to hold the plywood to the stakes. These pieces of wood are your concrete forms which will hold the cement in place when you’re ready to pour the walkway.
But first, put in your expansion joints. Expansion joints are installed about every three feet and are used to keep your concrete from cracking during expansion and contraction in hot and cold weather.
Using fiber reinforced concrete, which we used in this segment, is a good idea. The hundreds of thousands of tiny fibers give the concrete extra strength as is hardens, thereby eliminating the need for wire mesh or re-bar to support ordinary concrete.
Mix your concrete in a wheelbarrow. Then pour the walkway into the forms. Use a trowel to smooth it out and make sure you have a nice even finish.
TIP: Before the concrete dries, use a broom to give the surface texture. Simply take a broom and lightly sweep across the concrete from side to side. This will put small grooves into the concrete surface as it dries and will reduce the chance of your walkway being slippery when wet.
After the concrete has thoroughly dried (usually five days) remove the outer forms and stakes and you’ve got a beautiful walkway.
WHAT WE USED
The material used to install the backyard sidewalk was Quikrete Fiber Reinforced Concrete.
Quikrete’s fiber reinforced concrete contains hundreds of thousands of tiny fibers which finish smooth, eliminating the need for wire mesh or heavy re-bar in many slab-on-grade applications like walkways, patios steps etc. Specially developed to minimize cracking, chipping and flaking.
Fiber reinforced concrete also dramatically reduces cracking caused by drying shrinkage.
Quikrete Expansion Joint Strips, amzn.to/2A30IIX protect concrete slabs from potential damage caused by expansion and contraction. Made from cane fiber, the five foot long strips are weather resistant, absorb very little water, and do not become brittle in cold weather.
If your lawn is starting to look thin or worn out, if it has bare spots, or if it isnt quite as drought-resistant as it once was, it might be time to overseed. Overseeding involves applying grass seed over an existing lawn to make it fuller and thicker — and its an important part of a good overall lawn care strategy. For more information on Scotts products, please visit our website: www.doitbest.com/Main.aspx?PageId=365