Что представляет собой дельфиниум, каковы особенности посадки и ухода в открытом грунте? Что показывает обзор многолетних и однолетних цветов различных сортов? Как бороться с болезнями, как поливать дельфиниум и как использовать его в садовом дизайне?
Все о выращивании дельфиниумов. Где и когда посадить дельфиниумов. Когда подкармливать. Как готовить дельфиниумы к зиме. Все секреты выращивания дельфиниумов в одном видео.
Существуют некоторые особенности в выращивании дельфиниумов, о которых вам необходимо знать, чтобы ваши дельфиниумы были здоровыми и радовали вас своим цветением.
Вера Лаврентьевна в этом видео расскажет все про уход и выращивание цветов дельфиниум.
00:00 Дельфиниум
00:15 Где сажать дельфиниум
00:54 Уход за дельфиниумами
01:32 Прореживание кустов
02:54 Посадка дельфиниума
03:02 Подкормки дельфиниумов
03:40 Полив дельфиниумов
04:20 Обрезка дельфиниумов
05:40 Подготовка дельфиниумов к зиме
08:12 Размножение куста дельфиниума
13:05 Болезни и вредители дельфиниумов
13:42 Увядание стеблей
14:32 Бактериальное увядание
15:35 Профилактические обработки
Кулагина Вера Лаврентьевна — кандидат сельскохозяйственных наук, селекционер, соавтор 12 сортов малины и обладатель 8 патентов.
Смотрите видео и выращивайте самый большой урожай!
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Приднестровской службе спасения исполнилось 12 лет. Сегодня Президент наградил тех, кто, рискуя своей жизнью, спасает других. С подробностями Мария Китаева.
Viber ТСВ vk.cc/9opaXk
Приветствую всех в Моей Копилочке!
Сегодня мы с вами посмотрим новый ассортимент цветов и цены в магазине Ашан. Несколько дней назад завезли свежие цветочки.Очень много Хризантем. Есть даже Лилии.По очень приятным ценам суккуленты.Достаточно большой выбор Фиалок. Есть красивые Королевские Пеларгонии.
Обзор снят в Омске.1 февраля.
In this project, we are converting a spare bedroom into a home office. Tile is an excellent choice for a home office because it’s easy to maintain, and the hard surface allows for easy the movement of office furniture that, more and more commonly these days, comes equipped with lockable rollers.
The tile that Teresa is installing in this segment is attractive porcelain tile from Dal-Tile. Porcelain is a great choice for a home office. Because porcelain tile is fired at very high temperatures, it’s denser and more durable than ceramic tile, and can better withstand the heavy use that’s typical in a home office. Porcelain tile is also very resistant to stains.
Step 1. The sub-floor of our house is a concrete slab. The first step is to remove the carpet and pad, then check the concrete floor for inconsistencies and rough spots. Dents and dings in the concrete will not pose as serious a problem for tile as will protrusions. If possible, chisel off any protrusions in the concrete that exceed an eighth of an inch. Then give the concrete a good cleaning.
(If the sub-floor beneath your tiling project is plywood or oriented strand board, plane down any high spots and re-nail the sub-floor in any places where the flooring has come loose.)
Step 2. Find the center of the room. To find the exact center of the room, measure the distance from one wall to the opposite wall, divided that number in half, and made a long perpendicular mark at that spot. She then repeated the process for the two other walls, and put an “X” where the two lines intersected. The same result can be achieved by striking chalk lines at the center points on opposing walls, and marking the point where the two chalk lines intersect.
Step 3. Then lay out a dry run of tiles from the center point to a facing wall, making sure to put spacers between the tiles. Measure the distance from the last tile to the wall, being sure to take into consideration the quarter inch of grouting that would fall between the last field tile and the border tile. If the distance between the last field tile and the wall is two inches or less, you should move the line of tile back toward the center of the room to ensure that the border tiles are not too narrow. This process ensures that the border tiles along this wall and the opposite wall are the same width. Then repeat the process along the other axis, toward the adjacent wall.
In this case, all border tiles needed to be cut at seven inches, resulting in border tiles measuring 12” X 7”.
Step 4. Teresa used a dry scoring tile cutter to cut all the border tiles. One can also use a wet saw, which can be rented from most big box home improvement stores. We were using a pattern that combined 12” X 12” tiles, 6” X 12” tiles and 6” X 6” tiles. To create the 6” X 12” tiles, Teresa simply cut the 12” X 12” inch tiles in half.
Step 5. Teresa bound the tiles to the floor using thinset mortar adhesive. There are many kinds of tile adhesive on the market, including pre-mixed compounds that come ready to spread. The thinset used came as a powder, and Teresa used an electric drill with a huge blender attachment to mix the powder with water until it was about the consistency of toothpaste.
Step 6. When the first batch of thinset mortar was ready, Teresa used a notched trowel to spread an even coat of thinset over the area she would begin to tile. She began the installation in the corner, first setting a square 7” X 7” tile, then began laying the other border tiles along both walls for a few feet.
Step 7. Next Teresa began laying the field tiles in the pattern we chose for this installation, spreading a section of thinset, then placing the tiles down in the pattern. She continued working in this fashion until the floor was completely covered in tile.
Step 8 It is extremely important to let the tiles set for a full 24 hours before applying the grout. Once the tiles have set for 24 hours, remove the spacers from between the tiles, and begin the grouting.
Step 9 For this project, we used a pre-mixed grout. Teresa spread the grout over the tile, making sure to push the grout down into the spaces between the tiles, not worrying too much about getting the grout onto the tile surface—there’s really no way to avoid getting grout on the tile surface while grouting, so it’s best just to concentrate on ensuring that the spaces between the tiles are filled.
Step 10. Although it’s tedious, it is necessary to sponge the grout off the top of the tiles soon after the grout is applied, using repeated passes with a sponge dipped in clean water. Because the grout is much harder to remove from tile after it has dried, it’s a good idea to grout only a small section at a time. A section five by five feet is about as large an area as can be adequately grouted before the grout begins to dry on the surface of the tile.
Each year we handpick the best Tall Fescue varieties for the Southeast creating our own special blend for planting new lawns and overseeding existing ones. This blend of three first-quality Tall Fescue varieties is specifically chosen for it’s dark color, disease resistance, and drought and wear tolerance. Today we are going to be looking at necessary steps for successfully planting a new Tall Fescue lawn.
1. The first step in preparing our site for planting our new lawn will be to eliminate any existing vegetation. One of the best ways to do this is by spraying the area with a concentrated weed killer containing glyphosate, something like Roundup. You want to make sure you do this about two weeks prior to seeding to give the glyphosate plenty of time to act on the existing vegetation. Remember safety always comes first. Make sure you wear the necessary protective eyewear and gloves when handling any chemicals.
2. Two weeks after spraying concentrated glyphosate, we use a tiller to remove the vegetation from the site. After we finish tilling the site, we want to look around to see if there are any sticks, stones, or other debris that have been left behind. You also want to try to use a rake to examine for any low spots, depressions, or possibly even high spots. This will help with irrigation and the water flow throughout the seedbed as you prepare.
3. Now that we have removed any existing vegetation along with any sticks or stones that may have been left behind, we are going to add an organic humus compost known as Soil3. Soil3 will actually add beneficial bacteria and nutrients to the soil, which will help promote a healthier and stronger fescue lawn. One thing you will want to do before this point is have a soil test done on your actual soil. A soil test will help identify whether or not you need any additional amendments added to the soil to help prepare the best seed bed possible. You may find that you don’t need anything. However, when testing our site, we found that we needed to add 50 pounds of lime per 1000 sq. ft. and in addition a 5-10-15 starter fertilizer.
4. After spreading Soil3 and any other necessary amendments to the soil, now it is time to plant the seed. A handheld spreader will help you control exactly where and how much seed you are actually putting out. The first thing you want to do is make sure the spreader is calibrated correctly, which means you have it set properly. Different spreaders have different types of calibration so you will want to follow the instructions for your particular spreader. We suggest and prefer that you take about half of the seed and walk in a North-South pattern then take the remaining half of the seed and criss-cross in a East-West pattern to make sure you have adequate and complete coverage over the entire seedbed area.
5. After spreading Tall Fescue seed across the seedbed area you want to make sure there is good seed contact. You may have heard that spreading wheat straw lightly over the Tall Fescue seed is one option for making sure that your seed are covered. We actually advise against that. Remember, we only sell blue tag certified Tall Fescue seed, which is 100% weed free, as is our Soil3 compost. Any time you introduce another element, such as wheat straw into the area, it’s possible that you will introduce foreign weed seed into the site. One possible solution to achieve good seed contact is to lightly rake over the area. When you do that the seed will end up just slightly under the surface. You don’t want to plant them too deep., about ¼ inch is about as deep as they should go. Another option is to use a soil compost spreader. This is really the best option. By using a soil compost spreader you accomplish two things, by rolling back over the entire area it presses the seed lightly into the soil making sure there is good contact. Also, by adding another light layer of compost, the seed will be just under the soil surface and ready for proper germination.
6. We are down to just the last few steps of planting our new Tall Fescue lawn. One of these steps involves using a roller to eliminate any air pockets you may have or smooth out any uneven areas that may have been left lingering behind.
7. The final step is to make sure you are prepared to water. We have said this in all of our other videos but we can’t stress it enough. One of the most essential ingredients for establishing your new Tall Fescue lawn from seed will be to make sure you have the proper amount of water. Water immediately after seeding. Then keep the area moist until germination occurs. Once the seedlings start to appear you can gradually decrease the water amount to 1-2 inches per week.
Thanks for watching and for other helpful hints and tips on how to establish your new Tall Fescue lawn as well as maintaining it please visit our website at www.supersod.com
